Graham and Chris on tour 2014 – Update #14 – Carawine Rock Hole, Karajini, Tom Price

As I suggested in our last post, we packed up and headed back to the main road from Carawine Gorge and were delighted to see, on the way out two more Quantum Campers, and of course we got chatting. As is often the case, travellers with the same rig feel a certain camaraderie and for good reason. So we compared notes and confirmed our purchasing choice. It is difficult to find criticism of Australian Off Road Campers and their products. Especially among those people who use them for there intended purpose, that is, extended stays in remote places. Well, once back on the main road things didn’t go quite as planned. We decided to check out Carawine Rock Pool, the turn off being a little further up the main road and then in about 9km. The turn off was easy to miss, which we did (doh!), and had to turn back once we new we had gone too far. The short drive into the Rock Pool had some challenging spots. It was a very narrow and winding track with plenty of dips, water erosion and wash outs to negotiate. Fun though. To add to the difficulty, large bushes encroached from the sides resulting in heaps of new scratches down the side of our car and Camper. That’s the downside, the upside is that there is likely to be fewer people at the end of tracks with a reasonable degree of difficulty. Suddenly the track opened out and we had arrived. The track continued on across the river via a rocky ford. It was picture perfect, lined with Paper Barks, with numerous water holes for swimming and gentle small waterfalls that were inviting us to sit in. It was very picturesque and tranquil with the gentle noise of the running water over the rocks.

Just as we pulled up and got out of our car, we heard a car start up and then we saw a 4WD come across the river crossing with a young bloke and his 2 dogs. Very pleasant fellow from Port Hedland who was a wealth of information. We were still undecided as to what we were to do, stay or go on. It was still only 9:30 in the morning. The young bloke advised us against driving on along the same track and back to the main road, as he was not sure that we would get through with the camper because of one very difficult section that was a narrow ravine with a very steep entry and exit and no level section in the middle. While its tempting to give it a go and prove him wrong he was no dill and was obviously experienced in towing trailers along difficult tracks. So we decided that we would stay where we were for one or two nights, he was leaving, and it was likely that we would not see any other campers. We would simply have to backtrack out the track that we came in on when we leave.

We found ourselves a fabulous camp spot near some gentle rapids in which we could cool off and enjoyed the isolation in the most perfect setting.

Fabulous Camp Carawine Rock Pool

While setting up camp we noticed that we had a rather large bulge in the side of one of the camper tyres. Obviously a large boulder hidden by the spinifex along the track in, had pinched the wall of the tyre against the rim. The bulge looked like it was about to burst so we set to and changed the tyre. One tyre destroyed.

We had a wonderful day lounging around, walking and swimming.

As pleasant as the spot was we were starting to feel a little pressed for time with what we wanted to achieve before we arrive home in early November. So it was reluctantly that we decided that we should head out the next morning.

The Track into Carawine Rock Pool

One of a number of wash outs that needed to be negotiated

So we needed to once again negotiate the track out to the main road. About a third the way out, BANG! “Oh damn!, another bloody tyre”. Totally destroyed – a total blow out!

This tyre proved more difficult to change. One, it was totally flat and two; there was little room between the side of the Camper and the bushes that were along the side of the track for us to change the wheel.

One 9 Km track and two tyres destroyed.

Well, hate to admit it but my fault really when I thought about it. I wrote the first tyre of as “unlucky”. But when the second tyre was destroyed exactly the same way, a hidden boulder pinching the wall of the tyre against the rim, I soon realised my error. For travelling along corrugated dirt roads I run 28psi. This helps with preserving the camper suspension, particularly shock absorbers and helps to prevent the camper from shaking to pieces. I also run the same pressure in the car tyres. But when one thinks about it, the camper weighs a bit over 2 tonne, so each camper tyre has not far short of a 1 tonne load while the car tyres are probably carrying about 700 kg each. So the boulders that protrude from the side of the track have no problem pinching the wall of the tyres against the rim on the camper but on the car with what I believe are more rigid walled tyres; there is not a problem. In fact the tyres on the camper do not have the “LT” designation (Light Truck) where as the car tyres do. I think this is something the camper manufacturer should perhaps consider when selecting tyres for the off road trailers and campers. So before we got under way, after changing the tyre, we got the compressor out and pumped the tyres up to 38 psi. We arrived at the main road with no further incidents.

We were headed for Nullagine which was not a long drive so on the way we decided to check out “Running Waters” aka “The Eel Pool”.

Chris taking a dip in the Eel Pool – Running Waters

Eel Pool – Tepid water – great swimming hole

While there is free camping here it is a 500 metre walk from the camping area to the pool. The pool is fed with water that is a lot warmer than other swimming holes in the area at is a very tranquil spot for a refreshing swim. Not our choice for camping other than an emergency situation however as it does not have that idyllic quotient that we have become use to in our travels.

So after a pleasant swim we set off for the days destination of Nullagine along the Skull Springs Road. Arriving late afternoon we set up camp in the quaint, small, council camp-ground and headed to the pub for a drink and to check out the evening meal potential. While we are not big fans of many of the meals found in outback pubs we think that it is important to contribute to the local economy whenever we can. While the mining industry is the main contributor to the area we feel that us senior travellers should contribute our bit. Much of the infrastructure has been installed for our benefit and we should show our appreciation by spending a few bucks in these outback towns.

Nullagine Pub – Excellent Meal and a chat with some patrons.

We had a pleasant night in the pub, I chatted with a FI-FO worker from Noosa. “Gods Own Country” according to him. I did not beg to differ too loudly, but a really nice guy, Trev, who had a family back in Noosa and was adamant that when his eldest was starting to play sport in a couple of years he would give up the FI-FO lifestyle to spend time with his family. In the meantime the big money that he was earning would set him up for the future for him and his family. Talk about not being able tell a book by its cover. Unshaven, missing teeth and a scruffy appearance, yet he was the salt of the earth with, in my view, fabulous values and a dedicated family man. His observations on life and family were heartening.

The following morning we packed up early and headed for Newman. A very interesting drive. The intensity of mining in this area has to be seen to be believed. The infrastructure works are unbelievable. We thought the mining boom was over. Hmmmm!

Newman as expected is simply a mining town, the Caravan Park was adequate but nothing special. We were able to purchase two new tyres and restock with supplies. We only stayed 1 night, not bothering to do a tour of the Whaleback Iron Ore mine, while probably outstanding, not something that either of us were keen to do.

From Newman we headed straight for Karajini National Park and set up camp in the Dale’s Gorge camp ground. (as one would expect, in the non generator area). The afternoon that we arrived we checked out Fortesque falls and the Ferne Pool where we had a swim. Refreshingly cool and a splendid spot. Next day we set aside for walining the length of Dale’s Gorge. A FairlyUnfortunately it was necessary to stay 2 nights because of what we needed to get done non challenging walk ending back at Fortesque falls for a swim. The following day we drove to Kalimna Gorge and walked its length. We could probably have done both Dale’s Gorge and Kalina in 1 day, but we are retired after all.

Many campers did the whole of Karijinin from Dale’s Gorge campground but we decided to to 2 nights at Dale’s Gorge (which is on the eastern side of the park) then move to the “Eco Retreat” on the Western side of the Park.

The “Eco Retreat” is owned by an aboriginal community and is a little more up market than the standard NP camp ground facilities. It even has hot (solar) showers, provided you get in early and the camp ground is not full. They do not however have non generator areas which was a little disappointing allowing generators between 4 pm and 8 pm in the evening. To our mind the worst time of the day to suffer a generator or two.

We had been warned by a number of people that the road from the east to the west of Karajini was a shocker and recommended not towing our camper along it. Well we headed off with trepidation, after all it was only about 40km, and soon realised that the people who had given us the advise simply don’t know what a bad road is. It was a breeze, except that we did get a puncture in one of the rear car tyres but that could happen on any dirt road. The corrugations, while present, were quite mild in comparison to the roads that we had traversed elsewhere on this trip. Mitchell Plateau for example.

Dales Gorge and Kalamina Gorge

It is really funny the perception of some people. When speaking with the lovely lass that checked us into the eco retreat she told us about the couple who had fille out a feed back form complaining bitterly about the dust claiming that it was a health hazard and something should be done about it. So what on earth they could possible do about it is a little hard to fathom but apparently these people were adamant. We met another couple in Newman that who were so disgusted with the dust and the facilities that they cut short their visit and demanded a refund. Funny think is that they were lovely people who we got along with very well but they just had no concept of what it is to visit some of our National Parks around Australia. Its almost as if they are expecting a caravan park that you would expect in a large town.

Waeno Gorge, Knox Gorge, Joffre Falls and Hancock Gorge

Chris negotiates the “Spider Walk” which takes you to the final pool in Hancock Gorge.

Interestingly the whole of the Pilbara seems to be made of iron and consequently all the dust is an insidious red iron oxide that creeps into everything. We thought the red dust of the deserts around Innamincka and Alice Springs were bad but the Pilbara is unbeleivably worse. Fortunately the gorge walks make it worth while. Amazingly, holding a magnet close to the ground in any camp spot results in instant clinging of ferro material to the magnet. It seems that the whole of the Pilbara (especially the Hammersley Ranges) consists of iron ore in varying degrees of purity. It is not hard to find rocks that respond to magnets anywhere in the area.

So we walked all of the gorges in the Karajini NP except one and while they where all magnificent the two that stood out for us was walking into the “Handrail Pool” and the walk through the “Spider Walk” in the Hancock Gorge. If you did not know that the Handrail Pool was there you would be forgiven for thinking that you had come to the end of the walk some 50m earlier. The last 50m of the walk was along a very narrow chasm then opened out into a very large pool hollowed out of the rock and almost enclosed at the top like a huge cathedral. The water was cold as it receives very little sun during the day. You can go further to another final pool but it required a swim in very cold water through a very narrow water way. We left that for the younger folk (the exuberance of youth) that were there at the same time as us. Chris and I love the challenge of the more difficult walks. While none of the walks were very long, all of them less the 6km return, the unusual challenges made the walks in the park an absolute delight.

Sunset at Karajini – view from our camp.

Sunset from our Camp site in Karajini

Sunset from our Camp site in Karajini

After a total of 4 nights in Karajini (2 on the eastern side and 2 on the western side) we headed to Tom Price. One night in Tom Price to stock up on supplies and alcohol, a drive up to the top of Mount Nameless for sunset and a wine then headed out the next day for the ghost town of Wittenoom and Wittenoom Gorge, the infamous location of the “Blue Sky Mining Company” and the source of dreaded blue asbestos.

Dusk/Sunset – Mount Nameless

That adventure in the next post – Update #15.