Graham and Chris on tour 2014 – Update #17 – Esperance, Nullarbor, SA and home.

So it was now the 6th October when we set out from Kalgoorlie and headed toward Esperance. We had run out of time to fully explore the Albany and Bunbury area consoling ourselves to the fact that a few days around Esperence would have to suffice. Our plan was to be back in Melbourne in the first week of November. We also had to catch up with friends and family in Adelaide so we were not flush with too many days up our sleeves if we also wanted to spend some time doing a little exploring of the Nullarbor.

On the  first night out we stayed in the quaint little town of Salmon Gums. The camp ground there is run by volunteers with all proceeds going to the local community. Fabulous little camp ground with a very helpful and cheerful caretaker. We arrived at Esperance around lunch time the following day, set up camp, headed into town for some lunch then had a wander around town. The following day we did the tourist circuit and visited the stunning beaches of the area. We have been told on numerous occasions by many people that the coastline in the Esperance area was stunning but words cannot prepare you for the impact of seeing it for yourself.  We were simply gob smacked. While the granite outcrops and the numerous granite islands around the coastline are reminiscent of Wilsons Prom to some degree, the colour of the sea and the whiteness of the sands is truly astounding. My photos unfortunately do not do it justice.

Following our brief stay in Esperance we packed up and headed for Cape Le Grande NP and headed to Lucky Bay camp ground. As we came over a crest nearing the Bay, the scene that confronted us was amazing. Chris and I simply turned towards each other agog at the view. The colour of the sea was so intense it took your breath away. As we neared the camp ground another thing that we were not expecting to see out here was a sign “Lucky Bean Cafe on the beach”. “Really! – proper coffee out here. Couldn’t possibly be any good”. Well we set up camp and headed down to the beach and met Doc and Marie who ran the mobile “cafe” on the beach. Trade was fairly quiet so they sat with us and chatted and were a wealth of information. Doc, who is one of the traditional owners of the area, has several operations running, including cultural tours and 4WD adventures. We mentioned that we were going to head to Cape Arid and a couple of days. “Might see you there” he said. “We are taking a bunch of scientists from over seas into the remote areas of the park for them to do some research.” Doc had his fingers in all sorts of operations and was obviously a very successful business man. When I asked him his name he simply said “Doc, but just ask for the black fella with the kangaroo skin hat, anyone around here will know who you mean”.

We did several of the walks over the next two days at Cape Le Grande, the hi-light was probably the walk up Frenchman’s Peak. Quite challenging for someone like me who has a moderate fear of height’s.

Frenchman’s Peak

View from top of Frenchman’s Peak looking towards Lucky Bay

This bloke was sunning himself on our path to Frenchman’s Peak

We also did the walk from Lucky Bay to Hellfire Bay via Thistle Cove and back – magnificent coastal views.

Selection of snaps from Cape Le Grand

After 2 fabulous days (3 nights) at Cape Le Grand we headed for Cape Arid on the recommendation of a fellow AORC owner. Well that is a bit of an understatement. He actually owns the company that makes them. (Thanks Steve Budden).

What a fabulous camp ground.

Doc (the black fella with the kangaroo skin hat), was also in the camp ground with his crew of support staff and customers (scientists), as he had told us he would be when we met him at Lucky Bay. We had lunch then set off for a walk to the beach. We had not gone far when we heard a voice yell out to us, “Chris, Graham – hold on”. It was Marie, Docs partner, so we then walked to the beach and around the granite point (smooth granite sloping down into the sea).  Marie said “Hold on, that dark patch of seaweed is moving”.  Lo and behold we were confronted by a Southern Wright Whale mother and calf. Bugger, absolutely under the misapprehension that we were too late in the season for whales I had only brought my landscape lens along for the walk. Fortunately the whales remained close into shore, sometimes coming as close as 30m from where we stood.  We had that feeling that they were keenly keeping an eye on us as they frolicked around in the shallows.  Slowly they headed along the shoreline so we followed. They were travelling at no greater than walking pace. It was not far long before they met up with another mother and calf. We followed them for about another 1 km along the shore line, eventually meeting up with a third mother and calf. Astounding! So with limited ability to zoom in I took as many photos as I could, but sorry I did not have my telephoto lens.  Mainly because they would occasionally go further out to sea where they would do the typical giant body slaps in the water. The shallows not giving them enough opportunity to gather the momentum to jump. They would then come back in close to the shore to continue their frolicking in the shallows. We could have sworn that they were taking delight in showing off for us, and showing off there young who were trying to mimic their mother’s movements. It was one of the very special moment of our entire trip.

 Cape Arid – what luck!

While there was a lot more exploring that we could have done at Cape Arid, feeling the pressure of time we headed north along a back track from Cape Arid to join up with the Eyre Highway at Balladonia. Otherwise we would have had to return to Esperance and then go directly North to Norseman adding more than 200km to the trip. We were warned that this is a terrible road, and indeed it is, not the worst we have been on but close. The word is that the Dundas Shire intentionally does not maintain the road to discourage people heading west from SA, from taking a short cut to Esperance without going the long way round through Norseman and spending money in their shire..

A little over half way we came across a very old historic homestead called “Deralinya”. It has been lovingly restored by some locals (Roger, Tim, Weebo & friends and family) and is left unlocked and available for travellers to use as an overnight  stay (or even several night) or simply a lunch stop. Many people who stop here contribute by leaving something in the “Emergency Supplies” cupboard. Absolutely fabulous. I fear that one day some idiot will do the wrong thing, but so far so good after a considerable number of years.

Photos of “Deralinya”

A little further along the Balladonia road we came across this gate.

Many gates on the Balladonia road decorated with peoples clothes, usually underwear. Why I have no idea.

Reaching Balladonia then heading east we really felt that we were now on our way home. We bush camped for two nights on the Nullarbor then on the third night we reached Fowlers Bay where we stayed for 2 nights. Fowlers bay is a great spot with great walks and endless beaches. Any trip across the Nullarbor should include stopping in at Fowlers Bay.

Great Australian Bight

Bush Camped – somewhere on the Nullarbor

Camped on top of the Escarpment, Madura

Head of the Bight

Head of the Bight Whale Watching area.

 Fowlers Bay and surrounds

After leaving Fowlers Bay we were intent on getting to Kadina/Wallaroo to catch up with an old mate and Chris’ sister, along the way staying one night in Ceduna where with the help of some advise from my good mate Al, found a great camp ground. Then another night in Port Augusta then onto Wallaroo.

View From our camp in Ceduna – Great camp ground.

View From our camp in Ceduna – Great camp ground.

After a night in a caravan park in Wallaroo we had 2 delightful nights camped just out of Kadina on a mates farm which allowed me time to get the Cruiser serviced (much preferring country Toyota Dealers to the city ones). We then headed into Adelaide caught up with numerous friends and family, equipped the Cruiser with some new tyres, then headed to the SE for a few nights before heading home. We had to cool our heels for a couple of nights as it turned out as we gave our house sitter the benefit of the weekend to vacate. We arrived home late morning Monday the 3rd November. 5 Months plus 1 week on the road.

Future Plans

At this stage we have only 2 short trips planned for 2015 – Month of February to be spent in Darwin (FI-FO) then a couple of weeks in SA. Probably be a quiet year with a few short trips.

Cheers

Graham and Chris